Thursday, 17 April 2014

Weekend in Tapalpa

Last weekend was exceptional. For the first time in Mexico, I got to be a moderately greasy hippy for a few days, and spend basically my entire weekend outdoors. I loved every minute of it! The Castillos invited me on their family weekend trip to Tapalpa, thinking (correctly) that I would enjoy the crisp mountain air, remote log cabins and everything else! We stayed in a quaint cabin about 20 minutes outside of a pueblo magico called Tapalpa, which is located in the 'mountains' of the state of Jalisco. It was about 3 hours from Tepic, and an hour and a bit further after Guadalajara. Upon arriving I was blown away by how much it looked and even smelt like my family's usual campsite in Sandpoint, Idaho. There were ponderosa pines towering over everything, and the air was fresh, a bit nippy, and filled with that delicious pine smell. I was beyond excited! (I am definitely not a city girl, give me clean air, open space and forests/mountains to wander around and I'm a happy kid.) As we arrived late Friday night, we basically just unloaded our things, sorted out who would sleep where (7 people in a cabin with three beds makes for a creative sleeping situation), and then made a fire in the fireplace to warm up the place! It was actually quite cold, more cold than I've felt my entire time here in Mexico. It almost felt as though I was back in Canada, what with the log cabins, pines and cold. Almost.






Cozy cuddling time for the three brothers!

A fire expertly started by Wendy

 The next morning we got up decently early, and headed into Tapalpa to eat. As it is a pueblo magico, it is not allowed to have any sign of modern things on the outside of buildings, so all the signs are made of wood or fabric, the lighting is antique, and everything is exceptionally clean and cared for. This makes for a very rustic, charming atmosphere that I definitely enjoyed! We ate at a food bar filled with about 20 vendors selling tamales, tacos, fruit smoothies, authentic Tapalpan alcohol, and more! I went for two tacos and a freshly squeezed grapefruit juice, which was a pretty fantastic way to start the day!


Inside the cathedral of Tapalpa- completely brick!

Food stalls lining the main street

The process of tacos

Yummy breakfast

Even Elektra, (a Mexican bank) has a sign made out of wood. Pretty sweet!


These tamales were delicious. Like chewing on pure bliss
(Although the picture doesn't even begin to do them justice)




Following breakfast we drove off into the countryside in search for one of the recommended spots around Tapalpa- a gorgeous hundred-foot waterfall located at the bottom of a canyon. The roads got a wee bit too iffy for the van with seven people weighing it down, so we walked down to the starting point of the trail where a vendor was selling raspados, mangoes, and refreshments. Very bright idea, considering the heat of the day and basic lack of shade for the entire hike! Forget the chill of the night before, the temperature was right back in the 30s and without a cloud in the sky. We descended for about 40 minutes and then walked along a trail in the forest before coming to a mountain lake with the waterfall cascading down. We took about 500 photos with different combinations- Johannes and I, solos, the kids, the whole family.... Finally we fulfilled the photo quota, and I was still very hot and sweaty so I announced I was going for a swim. I don't think they believed I was serious, right up until I started taking off my tights! Huzzah for synthetic underwear and sports bra, who needs a bathing suit? I convinced Johannes to join me, and finally Hiram was pressured into taking a dip as well. I have to admit, it was pretty cold. Not the give-you-agonizing-brain-freeze cold as in Canadian mountain lakes, but definitely body-numbing. Poor Hiram went in all the way and started shrieking when he resurfaced,  the first dip is always the most uncomfortable! Anyways, that incited another photo session while the three of us stood shivering (or numb) in the water. Hiram got out after that, but Johannes and I swam as close as we could to the waterfall, before climbing out and drying off on the rocks. Thankfully, though the sun was slowly going down, the rocks were still burning hot. I laid there and actually managed to basically completely dry off, and almost fall asleep, before Hector let us know that it was time to go. I had forgotten that we actually had to hike back and wasn't feeling terribly motivated to get all sweaty again on the upward trek to the car. However, it actually went very quickly, and before we knew it, we were back at the trailhead and eating raspados (or artfully carved mangos, in my case).





Descending 




Brrrr.... As our lower bodies slowly go numb

Drying off like a lizard


Way too happy about my mango on a stick

But it is carved up very prettily, you must admit
 We walked the final leg of the trip to the car, and then made our way back into Talpa to try out the local food specialties for a well-deserved dinner! We filled up on borrego (roasted lamb), salad, and delicious guacamole and salsas, before testing the specialty homemade ice cream. Tired but very satisfied, the family went back to the cabin to shower. While everyone made the shower rounds, Hector started up a card game called Crazy 6's. After a while we started betting, and I actually won almost 100 pesos. It's not actually that much money, but for a broke exchange student every penny counts! It was a fantastic day, and I actually felt like I merited the yummy dinner after the nippy swimming and hiking that we'd been doing all day.



Yumm borrego




 The next day we went back to Tapalpa for breakfast,  then to a second tourist site on the way back to Guadalajara called Las Piedrotas de Tapalpa. It was basically like a bouldering paradise for climbers- a giant field filled with gigantic rocks perfect for climbing all over. I was once more in heaven, scrambling recklessly across giant rocks is my idea of fun! At one point Johannes and I spotted a giant rock that we determined we had to get up. We resolved to get up there once we saw a few campers chilling out on top with some beer and Bob Marley, and especially after we saw a Beagle poke his head over the side! (We still don't know how the dog got up, as it did involve some straight up climbing, but who knows.) Anyways, after some mildly risky scrambling maneuver, we mad it to the top and took many victory photos, while Hector took some from the ground. After a few hours of this we got back in the car to head back to Guadalajara. We ate in the food court in a mall in the city, and ended up spending a few hours chatting to a few of Sandy's relatives who had come to visit the family. After a weekend with very few people and a very rustic atmosphere, it was a bit of a shock to end up in the modern mall filled with people. But after a yummy salad and Starbucks latte, we acclimatized. As usual, we arrived back in Tepic very late at night. Tired, sunburnt (on my part at least), and stoked about the fantastic weekend! It was wonderful for the Castillo's to invite me on their weekend retreat, and it was nice to have a nature-filled weekend as I've really missed the whole nature/hippy/outdoorsy atmosphere here in Mexico. A beautiful place, and extremely different from the beach climate you normally associate Mexico with! I'm very glad I got to know it.


This was the first of many clusters of excellent, climbable boulders


Climbing a questionably sturdy tree to get up onto a boulder


Yoga pose on an egg rock


Eliu, Johannes &Wendy!

Check out the greasy campers and the dog behind Johannes
Nice view from the top of the rock

Nice view from the bottom, too!


D'aww, how adorable

Saludos

Wendy

Wednesday, 16 April 2014

One exceptional week, your average week in Mexico

The past week, the lucky students at my school had exams. This knowledge brought a sense of dread and angst down upon them, but gave me the opposite emotions- it meant a week long vacation! ( I have a feeling I'm going to die next year in university, I think this year has caused my work ethic and motivation to shrivel up from misuse.) But in any case, now is the time to enjoy the lack of homework and excessive free time. I must say that I have developed a very close relationship with my laptop this year and gained a lot of knowledge about tv shows and movies here, perhaps a bit too much. However, that's how exchange goes. Weeks go by when you're flying around and every minute is filled with breathtaking experiences and cultural learning opportunities, and other weeks you  basically hang out with friends or make do with your own company and the ever-comforting Netflix. Exchange is certainly a study in extremes- emotions, activities, cultural differences. There's sky-high,  the lowest you've ever experienced, and then occasionally somewhere in the middle. But any difficult moments are instantly forgotten when you have one of those ' WOW moments'. I speak of the moments when you are one hundred percent ecstatic that you are on exchange, and you wouldn't change your decision or your host country for anything. Lately this seems to be happening almost constantly, which is amazing. I admit in November I was having a pretty tough time adjusting to the limitations of a Rotary exchange and life in Mexico in general (going through that requisite blue phase of exchange), but ever since then life has just been getting better and better. Ever since January, as promised, the months have been flying by.  Starting next weekend I have almost three weeks of vacations, in which my parents will visit for a week and then I will go to the district conference in Queretaro with all the exchange students for four days. And then starting May 21 I embark on the final, FANTASTIC Ruta Maya trip. I can't believe it's almost the end- less than 80 days left on my exchange.While I am excited to go home to my mountains and family/friends, I already feel so lost and a bit panicked when I think about leaving this place, and ending my year as an exchange student. It's an irreplaceable experience, and with so little left of it I want to make every moment count.

With that philosophizing out of the way, here goes my week!

Monday I went to CrossFit with Sara. I consider myself in pretty good shape right now, going to the gym or running every day. But my goodness, I thought I was going to die during this workout. Basically they give you a workout filled with various exercises with multiple reps. And then they give you a time limit to complete it all. So you can't even recover between the strenuous exercises to regain strength.  I was whimpering by the time I was on the fourth round of squatting while throwing medicine balls, weight lifting, and modified chin ups. For about ten minutes after we had finished all I could do was lie on the floor breathing shallowly. But that's CrossFit for you. If you have anything less than a grimace of pain on your face, you're not working hard enough. After recovering enough to walk, I returned home to shower and make lunch. Sara and I met up later in her private community for some relaxed sunbathing. Lucky bum has a pool!


Tuesday I visited my former Spanish teacher Claudia's elementary school to give a presentation on Canada. I was a bit skeptical of the response I would receive from a bunch of distracted kids, but I was blown away by their attention and enthusiasm about my exposition! I gave three presentations in three different classes. They were all so cute, and all the kids were fighting for my hand and chattering away to me in spanglish. When I was leaving they all ran and hugged me, and begged me to stay with them, and then to come back the next week. It was so touching, and they truly seemed inspired by the photos and information I had shown them. Many told me they were coming to Canada, and I hope they do!

The class! While their attention span is a bit suspect in the photo,
I promise they were lovely during the presentation!







Hee saw this on the bus ride back (it says looking for a girlfriend). I wonder if he has any success with that up there...

In the night I gave my official Canada presentation to the Rotary club. I was way less nervous than I was for my presentation in Canada (it was sort of a trial run so my sponsor club could see what Canadian things I would be educating others about). And apart from a few hastily corrected Spanish errors, I think it went very well, if I do say so myself! Everyone seemed very intrigued, particularly by my many photos of the nature in Canada. I felt very proud to be representing my country, and I do hope I managed to sufficiently communicate how awesome it is up North!



The next day I was invited to a Mexican baking
session by Monica, the wives of one of the Rotarians in my club. Not only did I learn how to make pastel de tres leches, I also learned rosca de naranja, galletas ne nuez, and galletas de ate. All absolutely delicious, and terrible for the diet. Monica and Chayula (her friend who hosted this baking extravaganza) whipped, creamed, and decorated while I looked on trying to memorize the recipe and helped where I could. It was great fun, and I think I adequately memorized enough to reproduce it back in Canada. Yummmmmmm. Monica insisted on leaving me with this enormous tres leches cake, the granny and I were working away on it for quite a while, and I made sure to share it with anyone and everyone who I saw the next few days!


Monica decorating the cake after I injected it with the three milk mixture

Rosca de naranja

The gorgeous finished products


Enjoying with a cup of Earl Gray tea later on

Thursday Sara came over and we spent the afternoon making authentic yeast cinnamon buns and then a healthy cumin curry chickpea salad for lunch. It was quite satisfying to taste the fruits of our labour, not much tastes better than a cinnamon bun fresh from the oven!


The granny was a bit in shock over how messy the prep was (we cleaned up afterwards, don't worry)
Mmmmm... hopefully even with the bad photo quality, you can see how beautiful they are!

Friday I was back at the pool with Sara getting my sun tan on. Then, I went to Mariana's house for the weekend. We went out to a bar, socialized, and generally enjoyed our Friday night.


On Saturday, We woke up late, and then had this feast that Mariana's mum had made for us. Afterwards, we went to a tianguis, an outdoors market filled with everything from food to pirated DVDs. ( It was actually super ugly and mostly filled with second-hand clothes of questionable quality, but interesting to see at least!) We spent the afternoon lazing around, but roused ourselves enough to make 'cookie shots'. Mariana had found this recipe from inspiration of one of the creations of an ingenious new chef. His were absolutely beautiful- basically shortbread cookies forming the cup, then coated in chocolate and filled in milk. Ours..... not so much. In fact I won't even include a photo of ours because it's too embarrassing. Let's just say it was a complete desmadre and leave it at that. But ah well, trial and error, right?

In the tianguis

























In the night time, we joined up with some of our friends from school to go to the Feria, a carnaval that was in Tepic for the month of March. They had free carnaval rides, many interesting stalls with food and other items for sale. Many of the more prominent clubs and bars in Tepic had also set up temporarily there. We started off on the rides, then a little bit later went to the club Mandala. It was a good night, finished off by some late night instant soup from Oxxo on the walk back home (yummmm).





Many, many people at the feria




Another club located at the fairgrounds
The clubbers




Aline, one of my friends from school



Sunday I was picked up early by Monica (of the cakes and cookies) and her family. We were off to an American BBQ! Through the husband of Chayola (they also attended the barbecue) who had designed their house, Monican and Oscar had become friends with a couple who lived outside of Tepic part-time. They were moving back the following Tuesday, so this was like their goodbye party! I officially met Oscar, her husband (I had seen him before in the Rotary meetings but never really talked to him before), and the two boys who were in their early teens. We drove out of Tepic in the direction of the Cierra, that is to the East away from the ocean and into the hills. It got gradually even hotter and drier as we carried on. Oscar pointed out the acres of mango trees lining the road, stating that in about a month or so they would be filled with ripe mangoes ready to be eaten. With Mangos being one of my favourite fruits of all time, I was very excited. Previously only having ever seen mango in a crate from Costco, it's pretty interesting seeing the small green fruits growing all over the countryside in great abundance!

A mexican moment... we were following this taxi when it went over a speed bump. To our surprise, the back flew open, and before it was hastily pulled shut again, we saw not one but TWO people lying there! As we passed it, we say at least six people in the back seat. Oh Mexican road safety (or rather lack thereof). Also not the many mango trees lining the road)
After about 45 minutes, we turned off the highway into  small lane lined with beautiful bougainvillaea plants. Up the hill we went until arriving at an absolutely gorgeous cabin overlooking a lake. It was spacious, airy and filled with little decorations that somehow just marked it as a cabin- I'm not even sure how to describe it. There's just something tangible that differentiates a cabin from a home! I met John and Andrea, the couple from Oklahoma that spent half the year living in this gorgeous place. 








The view from the back deck

Monica and I got to work helping out Andrea and her maid in the kitchen, while John and Oscar started into the beer stash (Division of work was a bit unfair, but seeing as lately I've made it my mission to learn as much as I can about mexican cuisine, I didn't mind). I made ratas, hollowed out peppers filled with cheese and wrapped in bacon. I couldn't wait to try them when they were cooked, they even looked delicious raw! Monica then taught me how to make corn tortillas. She had brought almost 2 KILOGRAMS of dough, and I basically worked through the entire lot! It was a bit tricky, making sure that the tortilla was the right thickness and size, and then cooking it sufficiently but not burning it. Also, placing them on the pan was one of the most difficult parts- you had to place it quickly but smoothly so that it all started cooking at the same time, but also so that the corners didn't fold onto the middle! While cooking the tortillas, there was a specific routine you had to follow. First you had to wait about a minute, then flip the tortilla once (with your bare fingertips!), wait a bit longer, flip once more, and then wait until it started bubbling before removing it. I'm pretty sure I burned off all the nerves in the ends of my fingers by the end! I was working on the tortilla production for about an hour and a half. As you can see by the attractive expressions in the photos, I was very concentrated on my task. I was actually having a pretty great time, by the end I definitely had gotten the hang of it! Meanwhile, the rest of the guests had arrived. I was surprised to find that out of the 25 or so people, I actually knew a few! Mario and Veronica were there, Gosia's previous host parents (I also had my 18th birthday party in their house). They're lovely, hilarious people and it was great to see them. Also, coincidentally, I knew one of the fellow Americans that attended this party. In January when I went to Mazatlan for New Years, I met an American living in Tepic while we were walking on the beach. We had a good chat, but I returned back to the hotel expecting to never see him again. So I was pretty amazed to turn around to introduce myself to another guest and realize I recognized him! I guess the American community is pretty small in Tepic so it really isn't that surprising he showed up at an American's goodbye party. But for me, it was still completely unexpected!





BAM Look at that stack of beautiful, fresh tortillas
The guests were an interesting mix of Americans living in Tepic, Americans who had married Mexicans, and then Mexican couples. The languages were English, Spanish and then a garbled hybrid of the two. I was pretty amazed at how 'American' the barbecue actually was- the food, the drinks and general atmosphere were very similar to the summer barbecues I love back in Canada. I hadn't realized it, but I'd actually really missed them! Homemade hamburgers with bacon, cheese, and pickles, various tasty salads, baked potatoes... the spread was amazing. I basically threw any care about 'dieting' to the wind and helped myself to everything! And then came the desserts..... more pastel de tres leches, a peach pie made by Andrea, ice cream supplied from Veronica's ice cream shop, and brownies. It was absolutely amazing and even though I was stuffed from the dinner I made space to try out all of them!














After dinner a group of us walked down the path to check out a water hole. Apparently in rainy season there's a sweet waterfall, and you can jump from the cliffs into the water. However, the water was a bit scant at that point in time, so we refrained from jumping in.  We came across a few mango and guava trees and loaded up on all the ripe guavas (so exciting, I love tropical flora, most of the time in Canada when you come across fruit in the wild it's poisonous). Upon our return, I went back to socializing with the Mexicans and the Americans (bilinguism, boo yah!). Listening to the painful gringo accents of the Americans speaking Spanish made me very happy with my level of Spanish achieved, I must say. I also got complimented by many about my competency with the language, which is always a prized compliment that exchange students like to hear! T'was certainly an ego boosting day, that's for sure. Later on, I got some absolutely gorgeous photos of the lake as the sun was setting. Cuyler (the man from Mazatlan) also sent me some of his to add to the collection.



My new friend Lorena and I at the water hole


This is normally where you jump from (a bit dry at the moment)

Baby mangos

Ripe Guavas





Andrea & John, then Monica & Oscar to my right


I honestly had the best time, I swear I didn't stop grinning the entire day! It couldn't have been more perfect. It was amazing that even with the language barrier everyone managed to have an absolutely fantastic time. (I'm now envisioning my retirement somewhere in Mexico during the winter months, but I also want to be one of those wizened ski bombers on the ski hill, so we'll have to see which I'm more interested in once I've aged a bit!) I'm very grateful to Monica and family for adopting me for the day, it was an amazing experience.








Thanks for reading!

Wendy